Prairie Boy Visits the Ouachita National Forest

Well, Kim and I had another ultramarathon vacation last weekend. We were down in eastern Oklahoma for the Ouachita Switchbacks 50K race. While Kim and her fellow runners were performing insane feats of athleticism on very steep, rocky trails, I wandered around a little with my camera, looking for anything visually-interesting in the dormant forests of the Ouachita Mountains. No one cheered for me.

The race took place on the Ouachita Switchbacks Running Trail, though I think they tacked on a little extra mileage to get to a 50 kilometer total distance. (It feels wrong to say “mileage” in that context. Is there a word that does the same work but in metric? Kilometerage? Probably not. We’ll just go with “length”. They added a little length to the route.)

Anyway, the trail winds through the Ouachita National Forest, full of shortleaf pine, a variety of oak species, black bears (supposedly, though I didn’t see any), and – last weekend – a bunch of crazy trail runners. Kim and I had come down once before for this race a few years ago, but snow and cold weather had made part of the trail inaccessible and they shortened the race to 25 kilometers. This time, Kim got to run the full distance. Lucky her.

Most of the morning was dark and overcast (and cold) but the sky brightened a little around noon and I took advantage of the better light. Here are some of the scenes I photographed between stops at aid stations to be supportive to my athlete wife.

Shortleaf pines and rocks.
More shortleaf pines on steep slopes.

I griped good-naturedly to Kim that there was nothing but trees and rocks to see, but of course that wasn’t really true. There was, however, a lot of brown. That meant that anything green really stood out and caught my eye. Mosses, ferns, and pine needles, especially. I was drawn to those green patches and spent a lot of time photographing them.

An acorn on a bed of moss.
A stick on a bed of moss. Makes me want to sleep on a bed of moss.
Christmas fern (Polystichum acrostichoides), I think. Supposedly this species keeps its fronds vertical until after the leaves fall and then lays them down on top of the leaves to catch more sunlight through the winter. Pretty cool strategy.
More shortleaf pines.
A shortleaf pine with a pocket full of needles.
The photo every photographer is required to take in a forest.

I don’t really know what healthy woodlands look like in that part of the world, but the trees seemed to be growing pretty close together in many places and there didn’t seem to be much on the ground besides needles and leaves. I saw very few herbaceous plants, though maybe they were there and just buried under last fall’s oak leaf drop? I’m guessing the site could use some healthy fire, but I need to be careful applying my prairie sensibilities to other ecosystems.

There was a lot of fungus growing on downed logs and dead trees. It all looked the same to me, but my expertise on fungus wouldn’t fill a thimble, so who knows? I used it as foreground for photos and didn’t sweat too much about identification.

Fungus on a log. Maybe a false turkey tail fungus? I don’t know.
More of the same fungus. Or maybe a different species altogether.
More fungus. It was growing on a tree. Does that help with identification? :)

I saw some small trees that I thought were ironwood (Ostrya virginiana) because they were holding their leaves through the winter like that species does in Nebraska oak woodlands. When I examined them up close, though, they definitely weren’t ironwood and I thought they looked more like maples. Kim, after she was done running, said she thought they were oaks, and once she said that, I was sure she was right (and not just because she’s my wife).

Now, there’s a species called the maple-leaf oak (Quercus acerifolia) that is endemic to the area. The fact that I saw an oak that I first thought was a maple makes me wonder if I was actually seeing maple-leaf oaks, but after some online reading, I’m very skeptical. There are only a few populations of the species in the world, so I’m guessing maybe I was just looking at dried leaves of black oak.

Winter tree identification in the mountains of Oklahoma is not something this Nebraska prairie boy is adept at. Any help from people more local to the Ouachitas?

An oak species that looks to me like maple-leaf oak, but surely couldn’t be, right?

Kim finished the race before dark, which was no easy feat, given the distance, terrain, and the fact that she trains in east-central Nebraska, where hills are scarce and not nearly as steep as the Ouachitas. She was very tired. I was too, of course. It takes a lot of energy to walk slowly around the forest looking for mosses and acorns. We were both glad to retreat to the nearby cabin to eat and sleep before driving all the way home the following day.

As I always do in forested hills or mountains, I yearned for clear views of the horizon while walking around the Ouachitas. There were a few scenic overlooks where I got brief reprieves from my mild claustrophobic feelings, but they were few and far between. Still, it’s a really beautiful landscape down there and I’m sure it’s even more lovely during the growing season when there’s a lot more green. I hope to get back there sometime and explore some more.

A Day in the Bluffs

We spent a long day at our Rulo Bluffs property last week.  The site is at the very southeast corner of Nebraska, and includes about 450 acres of mostly oak/hickory woodland with prairie and savanna habitat on steep ridge tops.  I’ve written before about our work to burn and thin the woodlands to open up the understory layer as a way to encourage higher plant diversity and better wildlife habitat.  Last week, Nelson, our land manager, spent the entire day in a rubber-tracked skidsteer, shredding brush along ridges because we didn’t manage to get a fire  done last fall or this spring.  I got a few overhead photos of his work with our drone.

Nelso Winkel shredding brush with a skidsteer at The Nature Conservancy's Rulo Bluffs Preserve, Nebraska.  Using fire, thinning, and shredding, we are trying to allow more light to hit the ground in the woodland, which enhances oak tree regeneration, increases plant diversity, and improves habitat quality for many wildlife species.

Nelso Winkel shredding brush with a skidsteer at The Nature Conservancy’s Rulo Bluffs Preserve, Nebraska. Using fire, thinning, and shredding, we are trying to allow more light to hit the ground in the woodland, which enhances oak tree regeneration, increases plant diversity, and improves habitat quality for many wildlife species.

This photo shows a ridge where we've been working for more at least 15 years to beat back brush with fire and mechanical treatments.  Nelson didn't have to shred this area this year because the brush is finally starting to give way to more herbaceous plants.

This photo shows a ridge where we’ve been working for more at least 15 years to beat back brush with fire and mechanical treatments. Nelson didn’t have to shred this area this year because the brush is finally starting to give way to more herbaceous plants.

The second image above, taken with our drone, was interesting because it and others from the day showed a surprising number of large dead trees scattered across the property.  We knew we were reducing the number of smaller diameter trees with our thinning and fire work, and that a few bigger trees were also dying, but couldn’t see the real scope of that without being in the air.  (Couldn’t see the forest for the trees…)  While we’re not trying to kill off a large number of big trees, losing some provides space for new oak trees to get started, and provides a number of other benefits – including habitat for the many species that live in standing dead timber.  So, it wasn’t a shock or disappointment to see all the dead trees, it was just an interesting observation we couldn’t have gotten without the ability to get eyes up in the air.

My main job last week was to be on site in case Nelson ran into trouble with the skidsteer.  (That makes it sound like I was there to help fix the skidsteer – nothing could be further from the truth.  Nelson has more mechanical ability in his little finger than I could dream of.  I was just there to go for help in case he rolled the thing down the hill or something.)  While he was doing the real work, I tried to stay productive by pulling garlic mustard, scouting for invasive honeysuckle, and killing small trees with herbicide.  I also managed to find a little time for some photography.  Here are a few of the photos I took.

This is

This is starting to look more like what we want the site to be.  A strong herbaceous (non-woody) plant community, including sedges, grasses, and wildflowers, supports better wildlife diversity and also helps facilitate fire to maintain that open woodland character.

 

These paw paw trees were top-killed in our 2014 prescribed fire. they are regrowing from the base, but aren’t yet tall enough to suppress growth of other plants beneath them.

 

A small bur oak is fighting to establish itself on a prairie ridge as older oaks near the end of their lives.  Both in the woodland and savanna portions of the site, this replacement process is critically important.

A small bur oak is fighting to establish itself on a prairie ridge as older oaks near the end of their lives. Both in the woodland and savanna portions of the site, this replacement process is critically important.

 

These beautiful metallic-looking flies were pretty abundant the day were at the site.  I saw several in the clutches of spiders, but didn't manage to photograph any of those.

These beautiful metallic-looking flies were pretty abundant the day were at the site. I saw several in the clutches of spiders, but didn’t manage to photograph any of those.

A close-up photo of bur oak leaves.

A close-up photo of bur oak leaves.

I'm not sure what species of bug (and it is a true bug) this nymph is, but it sure was striking against the green leaves it was feeding on.  I watched it repeatedly stick its long proboscis into this leaf as it moved across it.

I’m not sure what species of bug (and it is a true bug) this nymph is, but it sure was striking against the green leaves it was feeding on. I watched it repeatedly stick its long proboscis into this leaf as it moved across it.

Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis) is a beautiful tree.  Both its pink flower and leaves are very attractive.  However, it is also one of the species we are trying to reduce the density of in the understory of the Rulo Bluffs woodland.

Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis) is a beautiful tree. Both its pink flower and leaves are very attractive. However, it is also one of the species we are trying to reduce the density of in the understory of the Rulo Bluffs woodland.

This beautiful little brown snake was about 10 inches long.  I spotted it  as it was making its way through one of the areas Nelson had just shredded.

This beautiful little brown snake was about 10 inches long. I spotted it as it was making its way through one of the areas Nelson had just shredded.

There are a couple species of raspberries, or close relatives, at Rulo Bluffs, but I don't know what species they are.  This one was particularly beautiful the day we were there.

There are a couple species of raspberries, or close relatives, at Rulo Bluffs, but I don’t know what species they are. This one was particularly beautiful the day we were there.

Because of its long distance from our shop and field headquarters, we never feel like we spend enough time working at Rulo Bluffs.  It’s a beautiful site, and one of the best examples of oak woodland remaining in Nebraska.  As with other oak/hickory woodlands, however, it requires active management in order to survive and regenerate.  Without frequent fire, or substitutes such as thinning and shredding, the understory at Rulo Bluffs would become choked with small trees and shrubs, such as ironwood, dogwood, paw paw, and others.  Those woody understory species block light from hitting the ground, prevent the establishment of new oaks, and choke out most grasses, sedges, and wildflowers.  Eventually, if older oaks die without being replaced, these woodlands change into new communities, dominated by trees such as ash, hackberry, and others that don’t create leaf litter that can carry fire.  At that point, restoring the oak/hickory woodland community, which supports a much larger diversity of plant and animal life, is nearly impossible.

…and that is why we keep trying to find time to head down to Rulo Bluffs.  That, and it’s such a beautiful place.