Overseeding Prairies

What do you do with a prairie that’s missing most of its plant species?  In some cases, good management can allow some plants to seemingly return from the dead.  In others, though, the species are gone and – especially if the prairie is isolated from others – they’re not coming back.

When the species are gone, the only remedy is to bring them back.  Seedlings are one way to do that, but can be expensive if the area to be restored is very big.  Harvesting seeds from nearby prairies and throwing them out is probably the most cost effective strategy. 

An overseeded prairie north of Lincoln, Nebraska.

However, most people who have done prairie overseeding share a similar tale of the results.  It usually goes something like this.  “I threw the seeds out and nothing happened.  For several years, I looked every year and never saw any new species come up.  So I gave up.  Then, 5 years later, I happened to go by the site and there were new plants everywhere!”

Exploring why and how overseeding works (or doesn’t) is something I’ve been spending a lot of time on lately.  I’ve got several research projects underway that, I hope, will help shed some light on this topic.  There are some things I think I’ve learned that I’ll share in a later post.  In the meantime, I’ll add my own story to the raft of others.

The above photo was taken this fall at a site we manage north of Lincoln, Nebraska.  It was a brome-dominated hill prairie – if prairie is the right word – that had few species other than smooth brome.  Some goldenrod, heath aster, yarrow, and a few other scattered plants that are good colonizers and/or resistant to overgrazing and herbicides.  We burned the site in about 2001, sprayed it with Glyphosate in April when the brome came up, and then seeded it with a diverse mixture of prairie species.  The next year, the brome was back in full force and it looked like nothing had changed.  Over the next several years, it looked exactly the same, except that every once in a while I’d stumble onto an isolated plant of prairie cinquefoil or Canada milkvetch that had obviously come from our seed.

In the last couple of years, I started noticing more of those prairie species, and warm-season native grasses started becoming more abundant as well.  Then, last season, we brought in a bunch of cows and grazed the site for the entire year – down to the proverbial “golf course” height.  And this year, the prairie looks marvelous.  It still has some brome, but it’s not dominant.  I’d love to see some of the species like compass plant and Canada milkvetch be more abundant, but they’re there.  And it looks like a prairie.  Was it the grazing that released everything?  I’m sure it helped, but the prairie was headed in the right direction already.  Why did it take so long?  What finally triggered the species to show up? 

Stay tuned.  I hope to have more ideas on this soon.  And please share your own!

Why is it so hard to keep trees out of prairies? (and why is it getting harder?)

The standard explanation for why historical prairies had so few trees is pretty simple – frequent fires kept them out.  Yes, there were other constraints such as frequent droughts, particularly in western prairies, and there were large browsers like elk and pronghorn that helped, but it was fire – set by both people and lightning – that was the major control on tree expansion. 

Historically, frequent fires would have helped keep small trees out of prairies and savannas, but larger oak trees were pretty tolerant of fire.

However, if that explanation is true, why are there so many prairies, managed with frequent fire, being invaded by native and non-native trees alike, for which the only feasible control method seems to be herbicide treatment? 

I think there are a couple possible explanations.  First, we’re in a relatively wet climatic cycle (geologically speaking) that probably favors tree establishment.  Second, we’re still missing those elk and pronghorn – although you’d think whitetail deer and cottontails would make up for that.  Third, we’ve added some novel species like Siberian elm, autumn olive, and a host of others that may not have the natural controls on establishment that some of the native trees have.  However, could it be that in the western tallgrass prairie and the mixed grass prairies, the biggest explanation is simply that there are so many more trees in the surrounding landscape than there used to be?  I just wonder if the seed rain from those trees is so heavy that it overrides any natural controls prairies have for outcompeting them. 

I don’t have any good data to support this other than observation and logic, so I’d love to hear from others who have other ideas (or data!).  But I have seen several cases where aerial photography shows that prairies, even without much fire, experienced only small increases in tree encroachment for decades.  Then, in the last couple of decades, those prairies have become nearly closed in by trees.  It seems to me that continuous seed rain from the surrounding landscape, supported even more by the few “pioneer” trees and shrubs that made it into those prairies early on, eventually overwhelmed those prairies.  Browsers – including little ones like voles – may only be able to keep up with a certain number of tree seedlings.  In addition, little pioneer trees that got started in the middle of those prairies grew large enough to support perching birds.  Those birds brought in more seeds (along with free fertilizer), and those isolated trees became ever-expanding patches of trees and shrubs.  The result was an exponential curve of tree encroachment.

Sometimes the reasons for tree encroachment are not hard to figure out.

Of course, while tree encroachment may be happening at a faster rate than it did a century or two ago, the other side of the equation is that our smaller, more fragmented prairies are more vulnerable to that encroachment than the historic sea of grass would have been.  A couple acres of sumac shrubland in the middle of a huge grassland is not a big deal, but it’s hard to put up with a couple acres of sumac in a 5 or 10 acre prairie remnant that represents the only high quality prairie in its county.

In some ways the explanations of why tree encroachment is a bigger problem than it used to be are beside the point.  Regardless of why it’s happening, it’s clear that in many (most?) prairies today, keeping trees out has become a bigger challenge than simply determining an appropriate fire frequency.  It requires vigilance and consistent patrolling with herbicide applicators, in addition to management with fire and/or grazing. 

The good news is that there are some tools and techniques available to make herbicide application easier and less harmful to surrounding prairie vegetation.  One of the best techniques I’m aware of is the use of a PVC herbicide wand, which is essentially a long piece of PVC pipe  filled with a sponge stuck in one end.  The wand was originally developed to apply herbicide to small cut stumps to prevent regrowth.  But if you fill it with a 3:1 ratio of crop oil to herbicide (Remedy, Garlon, or other Triclopyr-based herbicide) you can use it as an applicator for the “basal bark” method of herbicide application.  The basal bark technique works by applying that oil/herbicide mixture to the base of young trees, and the oil helps penetrate the thin bark and kill the tree.  It works any time of year – even winter – and is very effective.  We used to use hand and backpack sprayers to apply the herbicide until our clever land steward, Chris Rundstrom, thought of putting the herbicide wand to use instead.  Using the wand saves a lot of repair and replacement of sprayers because the plastic and rubber gaskets and seals in those sprayers get eaten up by the oil.

Basic Instructions for Basal Bark Treatment of Small Trees (see herbicide label for specifics)

– 3:1 ratio of Crop oil: Remedy© (or other herbicides with the chemical triclopyr – check label for instructions).

– Dye if needed.

 Apply to the lower 12” of small trees (less than 3” diameter) with small sprayer or PVC wand.  Just need to get a 2” band wet on one side of smaller trees or 2” ring around larger ones.

 Works on any deciduous tree young enough to have thin smooth bark, including willows, dogwood, sumac, cottonwood, mulberry, ash, Siberian elm, Russian olive, etc.

 Apply any time of year – including winter.  When applying in the dormant season, trees may green up for a week or two in the spring before they die.

Instructions for making a PVC herbicide wand:    http://www.invasive.org/gist/tools/wand.html

Another trick that can work well in some situations is the use of a wick applicator.  An old rope wick – like farmers used to use on soybeans – can do the trick, but there are numerous “roller wicks” available today that can get more herbicide on the plants with less dripping.  A wick application can work well when the trees are fairly dense, taller than the surrounding vegetation, but still flexible enough that a tractor or atv can get through them without tearing up the vehicle or wick applicator.

One example of a roller wick: http://www.agriweld.com/pages/weedwipers.html