Mountain Vacation

Kim and I took our annual trip to the mountains last week. We’ve been refining our vacation strategy over the last several years, having recognized that we want somewhat different things from our trips. Kim wants to do some hiking and trail running, combining exercise and exploration. I want to camp where I can get decent morning and evening light for photography, and enough open area that it feels like I’m in a prairie – not closed in by steep mountains and dense forest.

Cutleaf coneflower (Rudbeckia laciniata) with mountains in the background.

Both of us enjoy solitude (except for each other’s company), so backpacking is a good way to get away and find some peace and quiet. However, I don’t really enjoy long-distance backpacking because I’d rather spend my time wandering slowly around with a camera. The compromise we reached this year is that we’d do a short backpacking trip and find a good spot to set up a base camp, from which we could both spend our time doing what we wanted for a few days.

I spent an inordinate amount of time scouting for potential sites. I finally narrowed it down to a part of the Weminuche Wilderness in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado. It was near a couple streams where we could get drinking water, there were multiple nearby trails Kim could run/hike, and there was a large open meadow surrounded by attractive peaks. Perfect. Also, it was only about three miles from a trailhead, so it was a short, easy backpacking trip to get there.

Cutleaf coneflower
Aphids on cutleaf coneflower
Coneflower after a late evening rain

During our trip west, I suddenly realized that the drought (and lack of winter snowfall) in the mountains this year might mean the streams in our selected camping area might not be running. I sent an email to someone with a trails organization in the area, hoping against hope to get a local report. Surprisingly, I got a quick response, which provided an optimistic guess that we’d be ok, especially because of recent rains. We decided to plow ahead.

We both breathed a big sigh of relief when we reached the creek we’d planned to camp near and there was water running aross the rocks (see below). We were even happier when we found a campsite next to a couple spring-fed seems with fresh clear water coming out of them. Though we didn’t know it at the time, the campsite also featured an entertaining long-tailed weasel who showed up a couple times during our stay and ran back and forth on some downed logs.

The stream we’d planned to get drinking water from

In case you’re intereseted, we started at the Poison Park trailhead north of the Williams Creek Reservoir and hiked the Weminuche Trail to a meadow labeled “Miner Park”, where we camped near Hossick Creek.

While the campsite was really nice, the meadow I’d seen from aerial photos was beautiful in some ways but was also full of invasive plants and pretty low on native wildflowers and plant diversity There was a lot of musk thistle, Canada thistle, burdock, houndstongue, Timothy, etc. – probably as a result of some long years of overgrazing, either historically, recently, or both. Fortunately, there was still a lot of beauty to photograph and after an initial period of disappointment, I readjusted my expectations and ended up having a great couple of days. I photographed fewer plant species than I’d planned, but that pushed me to spend more time with each of them, which wasn’t a bad thing.

Musk thistles and other invasive plants in the meadow we camped in
Fleabane flowers and mountains
Fleabane up close
Aspen leaf and rain drops
Close-up of corn lily (Veratrum californicum)

I was really pleased to find a big population of northern green orchid along the little seep near our campsite. There are few of these plants at the Niobrara Valley Preserve, hanging on in the cool, damp, wooded environments along the spring-fed streams leading from the Sandhills into the Niobrara River. Stumbling across one or two is always a pleasant surprise at NVP, but there were dozens of the little gems in a small area near our camp. Awesome.

Northern green orchid (Platanthera aquilonis)
Northern green orchid
Fireweed (Chamerion angustifolium) along Hossick Creek
Fungus in the forest
Mushrooms on a rotting log
Coral slime mold (?) and lichen on a rotting log

We experienced the typical wide range of weather conditions while we camped including bright sun, thunderstorms, dark overcast skies, and starlit/moonlit nights. I worked with the light provided and happily explored the area within about a mile of our campsite. Kim went on long jaunts up and down nearby trails and also had a great time. Because she explored further, she got to see a moose that I didn’t. On her return trip down one trail, she also found bear tracks on the trail that weren’t there when she’d gone past the first time. That, along with some recent claw marks on aspens near our camp, reinforced the need for our bear-aware practices to keep us and our food safe.

On our last night at camp, the moon rose and lit up the landscape shortly after sunset, illuminating nearby mountain ridges and a thunderstorm passing to our north. I stayed up way too late photographing the scenes, walking around without the need for a flashlight (and trying not to imagine every dark shadow as a bear).

Moonlit sky with clouds and stars
Moonlight, trees, and mountains
My tent

After three nights of camping, we traveled back east a ways and stayed in a motel near one last trail we’d decided to explore. The Rosalie Trail starts at the same trailhead used by people climbing Mount Bierstadt – a popular and relatively accessible 14,000-foot peak. We arrived early in the morning to assure ourselves a parking spot at the trailhead, but didn’t follow the horde of headlamp-wearing mountaineers up the Mt. Bierstadt trail. Instead, we forked off to the west and were gratified that we’d correctly predicted we’d have the Rosalie Trail to ourselves. We hiked together for about a half mile before I started taking photos and Kim took off on her 13-mile hike/run.

Pre-sunrise light in the alpine (Mount Blue Sky Wilderness)
More pre-sunrise light
The setting moon just as the sun was rising
The Rosalie Trail at dawn
The Rosalie Trail at dawn

I wandered around the alpine within about a mile or two of the trailhead before heading back to the car mid-morning. I then drove down to the far end of the trail to pick Kim up at the end of her run. We both agreed it had been a fun week but that it was time to head home.

So we did.

Mule deer near the trail head
Least chipmunk
Alpine clover (Trifolium dasyphyllum) (I think?) and alpine meadow
Alpine meadow along the Rosalie Trail

Now we’re on the hunt for a similar experience in a different place next summer. If you happen to have suggestions, we’d be wide open to them. Again, our main criteria are: access to multiple nearby trails – ideally between 9,000 and 10,000 feet elevation and not so steep Kim can’t run at least sections of them; open areas of grasses/wildflowers and good morning/evening light for me and my photography, and access to streams or lakes for water. We enjoy being able to pack in a little ways and set up a campsite where we can have some solitude for a few days while we each pursue our favorite activies.

The Bench Strength of Prairies in the Face of Climate Change

In case you hadn’t noticed, the climate is changing.  Things are getting weird, and they’re going to get weirder.  Here in central North America, we’re expecting more and more intense storm events and drought periods in the coming decades.  Scientists are scrambling to figure out how to predict and facilitate the inevitable changes those crazy weather events will bring to natural systems, including prairies.

Fortunately, prairies have been training for this for a very long time.  A few months ago, I wrote a post about the resilience of prairies, and how that resilience is built largely upon the diversity within their ecological communities and the size and connectivity of prairie habitats.  Prairies that are relatively big and still have the majority of their potential plant and animal species are going into this encounter with rapid climate change with what you might call solid bench strength.

Diversity of plants and animals is the keystone to ecological resilience. The Nature Conservancy’s Nachusa Grasslands, Illinois.

In sports, teams want to have lots of available players that represent a broad diversity of skills.  Each opponent they face will have its own individual mix of power, endurance, speed, and other attributes.  A successful team can build a roster for each game that counters their opponent’s strengths, no matter what they are.  The number and quality of their players is a team’s bench strength.

Healthy prairies have great bench strength too.  No matter what gets thrown at them, they can adapt by changing their roster of species.  The speed at which they can drastically change the makeup of their “team” is impressive.  Anyone who has spent many years watching the same prairie has seen this in action, but none of us have seen prairies go through what Professor John Weaver saw back in the 1930’s and 40’s.

Weaver, one of the best known prairie ecologists of all time, had been studying 30 “large typical prairies” across parts of Nebraska, Iowa, Kansas, and Colorado prior to the start of the Dust Bowl era.  His baseline data gave him an invaluable opportunity to document the dramatic changes to the plant communities of those prairies during and after the droughts of the 1930’s.  What he recorded, along with his former student F.W. Albertson, was an incredible testimony to the dynamism and resilience of those prairies.  Their 88 page 1944 publication, entitled “Nature and Degree of Recovery of Grassland from the Great Drought of 1933 to 1940”  encapsulates the bulk of their findings in one place, and is worth a read if you have the time.

In 2012, we got a small glimpse of what Weaver and Albertson saw in the 1930’s, but our drought – while severe – only lasted one year here in Nebraska.

In 2013, the response of the prairie to the 2012 drought included some explosions of wildflowers, including shell leaf penstemon (Penstemon grandiflorus).

One of the biggest plant community shifts Weaver and Albertson documented was the widespread and dramatic death of grasses such as big bluestem (Andropogon gerardii), little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium), and Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis), and the subsequent rise of other grasses such as prairie dropseed (Sporobolous heterolepis), sand dropseed (Sporobolous cryptandrous), porcupine grass (Stipa spartea), and most of all, western wheatgrass (Pascopyrum smithii).  Western wheatgrass populations exploded throughout the mid to late 1930’s, to the point where many prairies were completely dominated by it, to the near exclusion of other plant species. In fact, in a 1942 publication, Weaver said the following, “The large area of drought-damaged true prairie and native pasture now dominated by western wheat grass and the harmful effects of the successful competition for water of western wheat grass with species of greater forage value present a problem of much scientific interest and great economic importance.”

In other words, as they made massive substitutions within their lineups, prairies were changing so much they became almost unrecognizable, even to those who knew them best.  Weaver and Albertson watched waves of forb species they’d always considered to be of little value become stars on the field, and they and others didn’t quite know how to react.  Daisy fleabane (Erigeron strigosus), Missouri goldenrod (Solidago missouriensis), and heath aster (Aster ericoides) were all examples of wildflowers that suddenly rose to prominence in new and major ways.  The two dismayed scientists described how heath aster, a “nearly worthless native forb,” formed near monocultures across wide swaths of prairie, to the extent that it “ruined many of the prairies…for the production of hay, because of its brush-like growth.”  Others were out of their depths on this too, and Weaver and Albertson reported that “considerable native sod was broken because of the seriousness of this pest.”  In the following sentence, however, they begrudgingly added a short sentence, “Of course, it did protect the soil.”

While Weaver and Albertson considered heath aster to be “nearly worthless” it plays an important role in the prairie, and is an important food source for pollinators in the fall.

Exactly.  While the strategy was foreign and frightening to those who hadn’t seen prairies dealing with these kinds of conditions before, those prairies were just doing what they’ve done many times before – making whatever roster adjustments were necessary to keep functioning at a high level.  In addition to forb species they denigrated as weeds, Weaver and Albertson noted that many wildflowers with “large storage organs”, including bulbs and corms, also greatly expanded their population size during the dust bowl years.  This included species like Violet wood-sorrel (Oxalis violaceae), bracted spiderwort (Tradescantia bracteata), windflower (Anemone caroliniana), and wild garlic (Allium canadense).  Those species and others increased the size of the patches they’d occurred in previously, but also were found “in many new locations.”  Other native forbs that became superabundant in some prairies, especially early in the dust bowl years, included prairie ragwort (Senecio plattensis), white sage (Artemisia ludoviciana), and yarrow (Achillea millefolium).

Windflower (Anemone caroliniana) was one of the wildflowers with “large storage organs” that proliferated during the droughts of the 1930’s.

As rains started to return in the early 1940’s, Weaver and Albertson watched with amazement and renewed optimism as plant communities started “recovering”, which of course meant they were returning to a composition more familiar to the people observing them.  Grasses were often the first to rebound in prairies, including big bluestem, which initially formed large and lush monocultures in many places.  Wildflowers that hadn’t been seen for seven years or more, suddenly appeared everywhere, including blue-eyed grass (Sisyrinchium campestre), which grew “more thickly than if the stands of 7 normal years had been combined.”  Downy gentian (Gentiana puberula), which had been considered rare prior to the big droughts, became much more common in the early 1940’s than Weaver and Albertson had ever seen before, with abundances of “15 or more plants in a space of a few rods”.

Stiff sunflower (Helianthus pauciflorus) returned fairly quickly to “normal abundance” by 1943, as did many others, including silverleaf scurfpea (Pediomelum argophyllum), cream wild indigo (Baptisia bracteata), and buffalo pea (Astragalus crassicarpus).  Prairie violets (Viola pedatifida), pussy toes (Antennaria neglecta),  and others came back more slowly, but returned nevertheless.  Importantly, those returning species didn’t appear to be traveling from long distances.  Instead, they simply re-emerged, either from seeds or underground buds, from where they’d been sitting on the metaphorical bench, awaiting the call to step up to the plate again.

Buffalo pea (Astragalus crassicarpus) and many other wildflowers recovered from the long droughts at a speed that amazed Weaver and Albertson.

The prairies we know today have been through a lot.  In Nebraska and surrounding states, we have specific documentation of the kinds of extreme roster changes prairies can and have made to adjust to the world around them, thanks to the work of John Weaver and F.W. Albertson.  If you have a favorite local prairie, and I hope you do, it’s important to remember that the way it has looked for as long as you’ve known it is only a small sample of what it’s capable of.  Smart teams don’t reveal their secrets before they need to.

As we work to keep prairies healthy through this period of rapid climate change, it’s both useful and reassuring to remember what they’ve been through before.  Today’s prairies certainly have additional challenges to deal with today, compared to the dust bowl days (more invasive species, more landscape fragmentation, etc.), but many should still have sufficient bench strength to make the adjustments they’ll need to make in the coming years.  Our responsibility is to provide management that helps prairies sustain their plant and animal diversity, as well as to protect prairies from additional conversion to cropland or other land uses.  Where possible, restoring prairie habitat around and between prairie fragments can also help build resilience.  In short, we have to allow prairies to do what they do best – adapt and adjust.  Prairies are wily veterans and they’ve been in this game for a long time.  It’s a good bet they’ve still got a few tricks up their sleeve.